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Copyright © 2002-2003 LeeAnn Heringer

Chapter Two: Pu'uhonua o Honaunau

You think I'm joking about the feral chickens. But trust me, on page 37 of our birds of Hawaii book, there is an entry for feral chicken as one of the native birds of Hawaii. Apparently, they were brought over in the Polynesian outriggers along with the feral pigs, the coconut, the taro plant, and the breadfruit. And at 2am when the moon rose, the roosters all started crowing in a fierce territorial display that lasted until daybreak at 6:30. And I could have forgiven them, if they hadn't sounded like hoarse children doing bad imitations of roosters crowing. These were the least melodic chickens I've ever encountered. They sounded like hung-over, barfly, beaten-up-in-a-back-alley roosters. But then I don't think they got enough sleep either.

Dean snuck out at dawn, of course, to go running. The farm was at the bottom of about a mile half-paved, half-gravel driveway that run up towards the highway past 3 or 4 other houses. The closest neighbor up the road had barn, a messy yard full of equipment and several covered sheds. And 10 puppies in the 15-20 pound range. Each one a different color. We had jokingly begun to call them the "Bumpkus' dogs" in reference to the movie, "Christmas Story" where the next door neighbors have a huge number of hound dogs that ignore every living soul but the narrator's father. Well, Dean had no problem running up the driveway past the dogs. They'd run alongside him for a few paces and he'd found it rather cute, told the little puppies to go home now. But an hour and a couple miles later, when he was running back down the hill into their territory from the highway, well, things were a little different. Puppies felt a l-i-t-t-l-e more threatened. In fact, they teamed up on him. A couple tangling up his feet while one of them got behind him, jumped up and bit him on the ass. Puppies were not nearly as cute and playful then.

From my perspective, I'm lying in bed, half listening to the dogs go nuts up the driveway without thinking anything of it because the dogs had been having barking jags on and off since 2am when the roosters started in. Then Dean stomps in, swearing about something, stripping off his pants so he can take a shower. And I roll over and say, "what happened to your upper leg?" Oh, then did I get an earful. (It turned out the dog had not broken the skin when he bit him, but had managed to scratch his leg badly with a toenail.)

We drove into town to check out the farmers markets. Which unlike home, turned to be more arts and crafts handiwork than food. But we did get some atemoya (aka custard apple) and some rambutam (aka hairy lychee). We also had fresh papayas picked ripe from a tree outside our guest house.


Down the hill from the Honaunau post office is the painted church. A missionary had gotten the idea of painting biblical stories on the walls to teach the illiterate natives. Which mostly proves how far removed, how remote, Americans in the late 1800s were from Europe and their medieval traditions of fresco and stained glass story-telling for illiterate peasants for this Hawaiian church to be considered surprising and new.

None of the churches in Hawaii seem to have stained glass windows. They tell the tourists that the church windows already look out at paradise, so there was no need for imagined visions of heaven. Ah, you gotta love "tourist poetry", the bullshit they make up for the traveller's coin.

Just down from the Painted Church, at the edge of the sea is an ancient site called Pu'uhonua o Honaunau, a residence for ali'i (Hawaiian royality) and a Hawaiian place of refuge. Pre-Christian, pre-Captain Cook Hawaiians lived under a complex web of gods and kapu, rules for what was forbidden, and if you broke the kapu, you were put to death. For example, it was death for a commoner to look at a chief. It was death for women to eat with men. However, a Hawaiian sentenced to death could run to the place of refuge and, if he made it inside the massive stone walls, he could be forgiven by the priests in a Pu'uhonua ceremony and allowed to leave without harm.

The park service has taken it over and reconstructed a few of the buildings and the heiau (temple) and staffed it a number of surly, tourist-distaining park rangers.


someone else's temple on a government beach


my footsteps are letters
written in sand. a stick
I drag behind me
insists on trailing sentences.
the waves, its curls, prefect punctuation,
commas & well-used semi-colons. the tide
is halfway out & still retreating.
Dean is reading from a guidebook.

I still don't know
what story I'm leaving
because each plausible plot
has already been written
by Shakespeare or Dickens.
forgiveness & love are ancients
clothed in combination of words
already spoken. even happiness
lies down in the sun
without hiding her breasts
because she's shown it all.
nothing new to see here.

old gods hum & hover & glow.

& yet I can't stop myself
from enjoying the view.
from letting the warm wind
wipe me smooth. wordless
as a girl without a history.

12/15/2002
Pu'uhonua o Honaunau, Hawaii

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Created 1/02/03. Updated last on 4/26/03.